Written by Luísa Montenegro
Edited by Natalle Moura & Iana A.
Translated by André Colabelli
Copyedited by Iana A.
The last time I saw mainha[1] eat was when the alien showed up at Cidade Livre. I was still a little girl, barely a meter and forty-five from the ground. The alien was just a bit taller than me, their skin green, and three crystalline eyes on its oblong head, like a space mantis.
At the height of my nine years of age, I had seen just about everything while crossing the country on the back of a truck, under sun and rain, mainha’s belly swollen with a child, who’d be left as a toll paid to the dirty roads of the hinterlands. I had seen a city rise where before there was nothing but weeds and red soil, built on the back of simple folk — common folk like you and I, but folk who might as well be magic. I’d had life and death, thirst and hunger, joy and sorrow, all in the long repertoire of my short existence. Because of that, when I saw the new arrival, their translucent fish tank helmet matching the curved lines of Brasília, I immediately understood they were an alien. But out there, in this city built out of blood and concrete, who wasn’t?
Maybe that was why folks didn’t find it strange, either. It was mainha who saw them first, out there by the Novacap. She used to sell fritters that she prepared in the back of our shack in the occupation, the tray firm against her shrinking hips — back then she already ate very little, like a sparrow. She said she’d seen a line across the sky, and she thought it was a balloon or a falling star. And did you make a wish, mainha?, I asked only once, when folks came around wanting to know about the story. Mainha only looked at me out of the corner of her eyes, the deep eyes of someone who’d lived so much more life than her twenty-something years of age — she wasn’t sure how many exactly — and I knew she hadn’t. And I fell silent.
Hey, maybe it’s some foreign engineer, right? Dona Maria from the grocer’s talked over me, and the people started debating the idea, because the foreign engineers were all weird, crossing the cerrado in their big fancy silver cars, shouting out orders from atop construction machinery, speaking in tangled words as if they’d chugged a liter of booze, their wives always these tall skinny blonde ladies, their long fingernails crimson red, but from ink and not from soil like the women from these parts. It really was something from another world.
But mainha insisted it wasn’t, that she’d seen the ship-space-ship (that was how folks called it), that foreigners under the highland sun would change to a bunch of colors, red, pink, orange, but where have you seen a green foreigner? And with three eyes, on top of that! And didn’t Aunt Neiva insist that the aliens had landed on Earth to civilize humanity? Maybe this one had come to see the new city, the buildings; it all looked so spacey already. They came to meet the inhabitants, visit the people. Oxe, then it’s a distinguished guest, everybody agreed — these folk who, despite carrying the city’s construction on their backs, had only seen the president a few times, from far away.
I felt privileged, even more because it was mainha who had found the alien, who was standing very straight by the bunk bed where Ramiro plus Knife Zé slept, fiddling with a little antenna that came out of their fish tank helmet. Hey Mister Alien, we don’t get a lot of radio stations we can tune to ‘round here, I felt like saying, but I feel that even if they had ears they wouldn't have heard me, because it was all full of people there, all saying, welcome to our planet Earth, the most beautiful planet in the world!, and mister have you ever seen a city more modern than ours?, and folks would stretch their hands, tip their hats, slap the alien’s back. Our eyes met in the middle of that havoc — we were about the same height, the alien and I — and I realized they were just as curious about the rest of us.
Later, when I was a grown woman and mainha was but the physical pain of her remembrance, the memory of the alien’s feast would return to me in the loneliest nights, in the endless hours working the supermarket till, in the light-years shaking inside a bus on my way to the public college, in the heart of that airplane-shaped futuristic city, alienated from the rest of the country in the middle of the cerrado, alien. The most likely place on Earth for close encounters of any kind.
No one knew what to feed to the alien, would you like some coffee? some saint food? some party food? so the folks brought all kinds of different food, offering a bit of their histories. Almost all of us were from the Northern and Northeastern parts of Brazil. There were people who’d come from the forest, from the beach and even from the middle of the way between the forest and the agreste, the sertão in the caatinga, and people like mainha and myself who’d come down trying to escape the droughts. Each State in the Northwest was in the lines of each one of our faces, in the way our hands were calloused. There were also some people who already lived in Goiás, Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso, whose cooking was better adapted to the cerrado, a place that is not the Amazon forest, the dry caatinga or the wetlands of pantanal, but that actually is, just a bit.
People brought tables, chairs, stools, wooden boxes, and put them all in the sports court where the foremen and the construction workers faced off in soccer. Anyone who couldn’t bring some food would bring a guitar, a singing voice, some booze, and when the news got out, the whole Cidade Livre came around to meet the alien, sitting at the head of the improvised communal table; mainha was by the alien’s side, all giddy, she even smiled — she looked like a different person. Duck with tucupi, rice with souari nuts, goat buchada, chicken and okra, the people presented their foods, speaking loudly and slowly to see if the alien understood, and my mate, don’t you want some cana to help the food go down? And the alien would pick up the mocotó jelly cup in which it was served with their elongated pincers, open their tiny mouth and stir the translucent liquid with their long intergalactic insectile tongue, their helmet long forgotten, being passed around by playing children. If the food was too spicy — Rita was famous for her spicy hot food, being a child of Iansã and a Pará native, she later opened a restaurant even politicians visited — or if the liquor was too heavy, the alien’s three eyes would tear up and the folks would laugh, slap their back and offer cassava flour or milk to bring down the heat.
After some time, the alien stood up from their box, kinda woozy, kinda laughing with their tiny mouth, a blueish gel leaking off the top of their stretched-out head, seeming drunk and full, like everyone else at the feast. Then they made a speech snapping their long tongue. At least, the people called it a speech, because no one quite understood anything — but that was no big deal, because around those parts we were well used to hearing authorities deliver speeches that meant nothing, might as well be in another tongue. The alien fiddled with some buttons on the chest of their multicolored uniform and a little hatch opened up, like it was a dried tree trunk, and from the hatch a tiny silver pipe sprung out, and before the people could run for cover—that was all we needed, the alien being a jagunço working for a farmer, or worse, Novacap police—the pipe spat out a bunch of glittery bubbles.
The people clapped, children started jumping up, trying to pick up the bubbles that landed on our empty plates and bursted, creating a greenish jello. Is this alien food, is it?, people were frowning. Like hell I’ll eat this, it barely looks like food, they jeered, but mainha raised her voice, didn’t your mothers teach you any manners?, We have to give it a try at least, it’d be a slight if we didn’t. She lifted the spoon to her mouth. Everyone held their breath, staring at mainha, who picked at it like a little bird, as she used to, and smiled, confident. She was so brave, my mainha. So brave she enticed everyone to taste the grub, offering half-hearted smiles to the alien, hmm, tasty, so good, exotic, isn’t it?, taking another sip of cachaça to help it down, leaving the rest for the skinny dogs of the occupation, returning to the food of our own world, our own people.
Mainha smiled all night long and ate the delicacies the people offered the alien, pecking at one dish and then another, like the sparrow she was becoming, that less than a year from then would fly up to meet Our Lady, to whom she was so devout. What she spared in her portions she lavished in smiles. She complimented the cooking, the spices, being a renowned cook herself, admired even back then during the hard times of the Novacap fritters. A queen, a diplomat, a representative of Earth to otherworldly envoys. She was so brave she challenged hunger, challenged poverty. Since when do poor folks not want to eat?, people would mumble when she was already very ill, bedridden, because they believed if you’re poor you gotta eat, and eat whatever you can get your hands on.
When mainha left me, it took me quite some time to accept it. I blamed the agreste, the trucks, the decampment of Cidade Livre, the “Capital of Hope” that had left her so disillusioned. I even blamed the poor alien, that in that night tasted all kinds of dishes, shared their food from another planet — that tasted like nothing in our mouths, but maybe they liked it, after all, nothing quite compares with the food from our own land — and even danced and made a singing sound by rubbing the pincers they had in place of hands. Because as soon as the alien came back to their home planet, mainha started to wilt, and that made the memory of the feast like this, so bittersweet.
On the one hand, the smoking foods, the smell of spices mingling, the voices merging into laughter, that have no dialect and no accent.
On the other hand, mainha.
Food has this capacity to gather, to unite, to represent, to touch even an alien from another planet. It’s care, it’s like a caress in the soul, that I knew since I was a little girl. But the reason mainha denied herself this caress I only understood after I graduated, as a professor in the university that quite reminded me of the ship-space-ship, fighting a coup, an oppressive regime more alien than the alien from my childhood. Even though the taste of uprising was well known to me, that was when I finally understood the feeling that led mainha to languish. When she refused to eat and started to wilt on the outside, she had lived through so much violence she already was withered on the inside.
So I made my peace with the alien and their feast. Today, I have daughters that call me mainha, to whom I told this story and taught the recipes from that night, recipes from all around the country that converged when this city was built, like the alien in my childhood. My daughters retell and teach these recipes to their own daughters, my granddaughters, all of them already born in this land, Brasília. Of mainha, I hold her memory, that doesn’t hurt so much anymore, and the intergalactic helmet the alien gifted her before returning to their home planet.
[1] Endearing term for “mother”, typically used in the northeastern region of Brazil.
Luísa Montenegro
Luísa Montenegro is the author of A Menina Estrela d'Alva, of short stories in Trasgo and Escambanáutica magazines, and ranked first place in the 5th Agostinho’s Culture Award. She is also a doctor (with a Ph.D. and all) in Communication. She lives in Brasília with four cats and a husband.
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